Tuesday, April 30, 2013

Thailand Part 2 - Thai Lunch and Elephants


            Before getting back on to Vince’s motorcycle, we talked about what we should do next. I told him I wanted to see the Nongnooch Tropical Garden that is suppose to have elephant rides and Bengal Tigers which you are able to handle. I also mentioned I wanted to try some authentic Thai food. He said that there are dozens of little food shacks along the way to the tropical garden so we could just stop in at any random one we see and it should be really good.
            We sped off into the dirty Pattaya roads and made our way in the direction of the tropical garden. Riding on the main highway, I notice all the exotic eastern looking architecture mixed with modern style building. On one side of the street you can have a massive, golden Buddhist temple and on the other side you could have a 3-story Samsung retail building. A true meeting of east meets west.
The main city gave way to smaller businesses and restaurants. Vince found a small food shack off the side of the road and pulls over to the side. After taking off our helmets and re-adjusting our messy hair, we walked into the outdoor food shack. There were about 5 wooden picnic tables that we could sit on and right next to them was the “kitchen” which was no more than a cutting block, a stove and a griddle. We sat down and Vince asked what I wanted to try. The menu was entirely in Thai with zero English but luckily Vince spoke a little Thai. I told him I wanted to try something spicy like Spicy Mint Chicken or something similar with a little kick. He luckily knew how to say that in Thai so he went ahead and ordered for me. He quickly turned to me and asked how well I could handle spice. I replied to him that I could hold my own pretty well. He returned to the lady at the kitchen (which was about 5 feet from our table) and finished ordering. I looked around and saw a few locals eating near us. The food they had looked pretty good so I figured we were in for something good.
As we waited for our food, we chatted some more about music and guitar. He explained that the jazz scene in Pattaya wasn’t so good but there were a few guys in town who were ok. An Italian friend of his plays solo jazz guitar pretty well he said and if their was time, he’d like to introduce me to him and possibly jam. It sounded fun so I told him that I would love to if we had time.
We were then interrupted with our food. The nice woman set our food down in front of us. As she set mine down, Vince realized that he had mis-ordered and got me Spicy Basil Chicken instead. I could smell the delicious spices from the dish and told him I didn’t mind eating it. I took the first bite and the flavor made my mouth implode. It was like every millimeter of the inside of my mouth wanted to suck its self in and absorb all the exotic flavors of every bite. It was what I was looking for. The spice level at first didn’t seem so bad but as I got about half way through the meal, it started to catch up with me. I started sweating and my face became flush. I thought that if it was just a little spicier, I wouldn’t be able to eat it. It wasn’t so I managed to finish the whole thing and the inside of my mouth afterwards was tingling.



Vince was nice enough to pay the bill (which for both of us with Coke’s was about $3) and then we headed off into the tropical garden. The garden was off the beaten track a little bit but it was nice to get out of the main city and out in the “boonies”, as Vince said for a while. After about 20 minutes on the road, we get to the front entrance. We hang a left and drive down this beautifully landscaped road. On either side we could see nurseries where they were growing several different types of Palm trees and other plants. As we road further, the landscape flattened out and I could see large green mountains in the distance. It reminded me of all the Thai paintings you see in most Thai food restaurants in the US. This however, was the real deal and it was exciting to see it in person.
We pulled up to the front gate and the guy who walked from the main hut to us asked for 450 Baht (about $15) in perfect English. Vince asked him a few questions and it turns out the guy went to college in Ohio and his and Vince’s alma matters were rivals so they joked football. He then asked Vince if he had a Thai drivers license. Vince said that he did but he would have to get off his seat and open it up to get it. The guy said that he believed him and dropped his price for Vince to 80 Baht. We paid our admission and drove inside.
After driving in circles we found a parking spot and made our way into the park. As we tried looking at the map of the park we got confused by the poor layout of the map and ended up outside the park again. After stopping for a minute and finding our way back to the main road, we finally made it to where they kept the elephants.
As soon as we made it to the elephant pen, one of the large beasts mounted one of the females and started thrusting. It sort of made it an awkward moment for both of us and I figured the only way to save the moment was to take out my camera and start taking photos National Geographic style.


Once they were finished we made our way into the center of the park. I managed to find the booth where they sold tickets for elephant rides and paid my 450 Baht fee. They sent me to this elevated booth where they brought an elephant with a seat mounted to the top. I carefully got in and threw my camera to Vince. There was a driver who was sitting on his neck of the gentle beast who gently nudged the back of his hear with his sandled foot. We started to move slowly as the animal isn’t really known for its speed.
We waddled through the park and everyone looked and waved at me. I smiled and waved back at them. It sort of made you feel like a kind riding an elephant by all these short Thai people.
We rode a few blocks and turned around. The elephant moved very slowly which sort of made a fast walker like myself kind of impatient. But what it lacked in speed, it truly lacked in comfort. The elephant waddles so much and the seat moves around in every direction, which made for an uncomfortable ride. I guess they are probably good for mowing through thick jungle but in the city, I might want to stick with a car.




The driver took me back to the booth and I got down. Before I got off the seat I reached down and petted the elephants back. It had very thick skin, which almost felt like toned muscles all over. It had long thin black hairs that grew off the skin about 4 inches. It was different than what I had imagined but was still cool to pet one.
I after getting down, the final thing I wanted to do was take a picture with a Bengal Tiger. Their website promoted taking a picture with Tigers and also feeding little tiger cubs. After looking at the poorly drawn map again and taking more wrong turns, we found the “Animal Zoo”. We walked by some birds and emu looking birds till we finally got to the section with the Tigers.
The Tiger was chained to an elevated concrete slab about 3 feet off the ground. The chain its self was maybe 3 feet also so it was barely able to stand on its feet. Several people crowded around the scared animal. His eyes were wide open and definitely afraid of all the people surrounding him. I have been to several zoos in the past but this for me was crossing the line. This would have never flown in the states. This animal was being mistreated and deserved better than to be chained to a slab and gawked at. Whenever one of the spectators would try to get too close, he would get up and growl and take a swipe at him. There was no protection for the spectators besides that chain attached to the Tiger’s neck so if you got too close and didn’t watch what you were doing, the Tiger could easily grab you and I would imagine slice you open.
I approached the tiger slowly as to try not to frighten him. I got as close to him as I thought was safe which was about 5 feet from him. I got my camera out and snapped a few photos of him (with the flash off of course) and took a minute to admire him. It very much reminded me of a larger version of any house cat. One that you could potentially have hanging out on your couch at home and watch reruns of House M.D. with. The kind that scratches the shit out of your couch and you have to tell it “NO!’ at as it scurries and hides in it’s favorite hiding place. Just as I was thinking this, another person got too close to the Tiger and he took a swipe at him with his large paws which came about 6 inches from this guy’s face. I then came back to my senses. This is no domestic cat. This is a wild animal and he doesn’t see us as couch buddies, he sees us as intruders and dinner.
One of the guys who worked at the Zoo came over and asked if I wanted to take a picture with the Tiger. “It’s only 150 Baht!” he said. I thought this guy had to be fucking joking. This Tiger was ready to maul somebody and he thought I was dumb enough to PAY him to go close enough to this tiger where he would surely eat my face. I laughed and politely told him no. I think my life is worth a little more than 150 Baht.




Looking at my wristwatch, I realized we were quickly running out of time. We went back to the motorcycle and stopped by the Bali Hai Pier where we got a last minute Thai meal at a quaint outdoor restaurant. We got some amazing coconut red curry and fried rice and spent maybe 2 dollars on the entire meal. We finished and realized that I only had 30 minutes to be back to the ship! We paid our bill and hit the road.
We flew down the highway at illegal speeds. We had to be going about 65 mph down this city street. I looked down at his speedometer that was apparently broken since I figured we were going faster than zero miles per hour. My panic started to creep up on me again and I just closed my eyes and concentrated on my breathing. When I opened my eyes, I saw signs for the port. I carefully took my left hand off the now slippery metal handle behind me and looked at my watch. It said we had 15 minutes left to get back to the ship. Vince charged down these streets, blowing off red lights as we go.
 We finally made it back to the ship with 4 minutes to spare. I take off my helmet and thanked him for every thing. Vince proved to be a good host and I told him next time I come back to Thailand, I’ll look him up. He said it was his pleasure and that next time he’ll show me more of the local hangouts. I rushed back to the ship and barely made it in time. Thinking back, I realized we covered a lot of ground and realized that it was probably the most fun day I’ve had on my whole contract. Tomorrow we were shipping out for Ko Samui. I hoped I was going to has as much fun…                     -DB





Grumpy cat.

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