Sunday in Pago Pago (American Samoa)

            I didn’t think I was going to get off the ship. There were too many things against it. I was recovering from a 3-day fever and I was still feeling a bit weak. We were getting into the port on a Sunday, which in Samoa is a religious day of rest so most of the shops, and businesses would be closed. I decided to get a late breakfast on the ship and from the window from where I was eating, I could see outside. It looked sunny and bright and the town had a very rustic look that intrigued me enough to go outside and explore.

            I grabbed the bare essentials from my cabin and stepped off the ship. The harbor of Pago Pago is a deep bay and on all sides, the land jacks up into rich green hills. On these hills you can see peoples homes. From the road from where I was walking, they almost looked like tree houses embedded into the hills. I pass by some shops and restaurants (which were all closed) and got into the main part of town.

            

           The buildings in town were rusted, chipped and crumbled and showed little intention of renovation. Some of them were simply reduced to rubble. This being Sunday, I saw most of the local people coming to and from church so I followed them and took some snap shots of the more interesting looking churches.

            The research that I did on Samoa warned me of the feral dogs. They warned visitors that they are very aggressive and will indeed bite you. It also said that if you get into a confrontation with one, you should reach down and pretend that you are going to pick up a rock. The dogs there are so use to people throwing rocks at them, that they flee at even the sight. So as I walk through the town, behind every dark alley and behind every blind corner, I can see these dogs lurking in the shadows. Shaggy, scarred and dirty, I kept an eye on these dogs every step of the way.

             As I walk further down the road I notice above me a large, dark flying creature flapping its large wings. After focusing in on it a bit more I noticed it was a bat! Not just any bat, the Samoan Flying Foxes that I had read about in my Internet research of the island. I had originally planned to go hiking and try to photograph them but because of the fever, I decided not to go. The bat landed in a near by breadfruit tree. As I approached the tree to get a closer look, another flew into the tree. I looked over to the side of that tree and saw in the distance another one in mid air, flying towards another. They were everywhere! I regretted only bringing my iPhone and not my Nikon camera at that moment.  The breadfruit tree was next to an Inn where a guy was smoking. He shouted out loud “Yeah that bat is on this side!” I walked over look and sure enough he was there, hanging upside down and cleaning himself. I walked over to the guy and asked if there are a lot of bats around here. He said that they are all over the place and especially like to hang out in breadfruit trees. I introduced my self to him and he said his name was Daniel. He actually was from Alaska but he is here for the week. He works with his family business driving trucks in Anchorage. His brother came out and we all chatted for a bit. I then decided to go back to the ship to get my camera and come back.

            I dashed back to the ship and grabbed my camera and started walking back. Right off the gangway from the ship there were several vendors selling various local crafts and clothing. In the midst of all this, there was one lonely table with one dull looking fellow sitting at it. The sign above him read “National Parks”. I decided to go over and maybe ask him about these flying foxes. I approach and ask, “So where can I see these Flying Foxes I keep hearing so much about?!” He looked up and with half a smile he replied, “Man, you just missed the tour! They left about 20 minutes ago. They would have taken you right to them!” He told me after that if I took a cab or a bus (buses are closed on Sundays), and go to the town of Aua, I would be able to see tons of them. I figured I might not go that far to see them but I took a National Park map of the island anyway and continued on my way.

 I made it back to the breadfruit tree next to the inn and on the porch now were his brother and two older women. I walked over and started talking to them. They were very friendly and told me that they were Daniel’s mother and aunt. We chatted about Alaska and they were curious about the cruise industry so we had a good time just making small talk. It was nice to meet their whole family and to also see that they were all equally friendly.

After I chatted with the family, I walked over to the breadfruit tree and got out my camera. I waited patiently, adjusting my camera and dialing in the settings so when the bat came, I’d be ready. So I waited. And kept waiting. I’m looking all around and I still see nothing. I grow impatient and decide that maybe I should try that town that the park ranger recommended after all. I walk further down the road and eventually pick up a cab. He drove me down the road and after a few minutes, he dumped me off on the side of the road.

After getting out of the cab, I realize that I have no idea where I’m going. He just told me to go to the town and didn’t tell where to go once I was there. I look around for a breadfruit tree and see none, just a large tree in an empty lot. I look at that tree and see that parts of its leaves were green and the other leaves were a dead brown. Just then one of the dead leaves open up and flew away! What?! I then realized that those were not leaves but in fact dozens of Flying Foxes hanging upside down from its limbs!

I walk slowly towards the tree and then I heard the screeching. The loudest, most demonic gathering of screeches I’ve ever heard. The sound made the hairs on my neck nearly jump out of my skin. It put a deep fear with in me. I made sure I took my time walking towards the tree so that I didn’t disturb them of even worse, anger them. I started to snap a few photos and after about 15 minutes, I decided to look at my camera to view the photos I took. I then realized that I forgot my memory card back at my cabin. I felt like such an idiot. What a rookie mistake. I look down at my watch and see that I still had some time left. I figure that I can make it back to the ship, grab it, and bring it back to the tree, shoot the photos and be back on the ship in time to perform.

I start walking back to town and looking out for a cab. From behind me I then heard a loud barking dog. I turned around quickly and see the dog lunging towards me with its mouth wide open ready to tear into my leg! I manage to miss the bite by only a few inches. I bend over and pretend to pick up a rock and then suddenly the dog takes off running in the other direction. Relieved and also a little surprised that the rock tactic actually worked, I continue walking down the road with my heart racing.

Finally a cab approaches and after waving it down, I get in. The cab driver introduced himself as Junior (the dude had to be at least 250 lbs.) and we had a nice chat going back to the ship. Junior was born in Carson California of all places and was raised in Honolulu. He got involved with gangs there and was convicted of a few felonies so he moved in with some relatives here in Pago Pago to get out of trouble. He had a tear shaped tattoo on his cheek so I knew he was no guy to cross.

We got back to the ship in good time and Junior suggested that if I was going back to the same place he picked me up, he could just wait around and take me back. I agreed and he waited in a near by parking lot for me. On the way on the ship, I bumped into Will who is the professional photographer on board. I asked him what he was up to and he said he wanted to go shoot some photos for fun. I told him about the Flying Foxes and that I’m going back over there to shoot some photos. I invited him to come along and accepted. I rush back to my cabin, grab the memory card and we both hop into the cab.

We drove back to the spot and shot nearly a hundred photos of these Flying Foxes. It was great being able to get so close to these amazing creatures… even though they terrified the shit out of me. Junior suggested we go to a great look out point that we can take some great landscape photos. We agree and get back in the car and make our way over there.

Flying Fox.

Dozens of Flying Foxes "hanging" out.

As we finally start up the side of the mountain, Junior reveals to us that this isn’t his car and he’s not sure if the car can actually make it up the hill. He jokes that we can push it the rest of the way if it can’t. I think to myself that if we were all 250lb Samoan dudes, maybe we could. However I am neither of those things.

The car bogs down to a crawl. I look over at the speedometer and the needle is literally all the way down to zero. We were going so slowly, the speedometer couldn’t pick up our actual speed! Junior then reveals to us that the guy who owns this car is an engineer and recently replaced the gear shift box but did a shit job because now exhaust fumes leak through the floor. He recommended that we open our doors a bit to vent the fumes. It was about at this time I though we just might die out here…

We finally reached the peak and it didn’t disappoint. The view was great. A full view of the Pago Pago harbor and the mountains far off into the distance. To our left was Rainmaker Mountain, which is a famous mountain that is typically surrounded by rainclouds but on this day, was clear. We took photos and also turned around to find another great view of the other side of the island. Looking down at my watch I saw that we were running out of time. I told Will and Junior that we need to get back to the ship soon. Junior said that he’d like to take us to Camel Rock that was not far from where we were and would be a great view. I told him if he could get us there and back to the ship in time, I would be ok with it. He said that he could definitely do it in time if we hurried. So we all got back into the old leaky rust bucket of a car and jammed down the mountain.

Pago Pago from the Rainmaker lookout.

Will snapping photos.

We were at Camel Rock with in 10 minutes and it was yet again a great view.  I shot a few photos and let Will take a few more. I started talking more to Junior and he bragged that his other car had an amazing sound system and he actually won the Samoan contest for “Best Bumper” and received $7,000 and a new sound system (which he ended up giving to his dad). He explain further that he had like 50 speakers in it running at 251 Gigi watts or something crazy and he had neighbors complaining so much he had to remove a few of them. He seemed pretty proud of his ride.

Camel Rock.

I looked down at my watch and saw that we had literally 5 minutes to be back on the ship. I told Will to pack up and we got in the car and made it back to the port. Finally the subject of a price came up. Junior mentioned that he wanted to cut us a deal and that usually a ride from the ship up to the look out is $40 round trip. He said that he doesn’t really want to give us a set price and that we should give what we felt was appropriate. I thought that was pretty cool so we gave him $40 (and I gave a little extra) and he seemed cool with it.

What I thought was going to be a dull, uneventful day ended up being more of an adventure than I could of realized. I found the Samoan people very friendly and approachable. It has a rich culture and natural history that I was very lucky to be able to enjoy. I think that Samoa may be my favorite South Pacific port yet.

Pago Pago

Opposite end of Camel Rock.

Other side of the island from Pago Pago.

Charlie the Tuna???