A Love Letter To A Penguin - Stanley, Falkland Islands

The ride out to the penguin rookeries was one of excitement, wonder and concern. “were we going to actually see any penguins this late in the summer?” was the question being recycled in our minds. Rumors from veteran crew members established that it was in fact too late and we would see nothing but sand and old feathers. The guide though gave a “guarantee” that we would see penguins, so for a measly $20, what did we have to lose? 

The landscape in the Falkland islands is one I’ll never forget. The sky was washed a clouded dark, eerie grey that cast only subtle shadows on the ground. Large hills and rocks as far as the eye can see and the most curious thing: not one tree can be found in it's landscape. Small bushes and tall grass is the most you will see grow on the island. Tree’s can not grow naturally here because of its harsh conditions. The lack of tree’s only add to it’s mystique.

We finally reach Gypsy Cove where we told that we were “guaranteed” to see penguins. I prepared my camera (with its new SD memory card which I had to pay 40 British Pounds to get at some small electronics shop in town because I accidentally left mine on the ship), and started on the trail towards the cove. I only had to walk about 5 minutes before I saw them.

A black huddled mass on a white sandy beach, the magellanic penguins in fact were here. A group of about 50 of them. Mostly standing, some lying in the sun and few having fun in the water. The charm of these animals is incredible. There is something about a penguin that captures the curiosity and imagination. Maybe it’s in the awkward way they waddle or maybe the fact they wear tuxedos to the beach. Either way, they are a wonder and I could myself getting lost in their interplay. 

 

I walked further down the trail to another section of the cove and there, along the hillside, in the grass, several more lied in the grass only about 20 feet from the trail. I was able to get in close and with my zoom lens, get even closer. The pictures I was able to get were outstanding and once again, I felt so much excitement to be able to be so close to these creatures. Something you experience once in a lifetime. 

 

  

 

I was in awe the entire time at the cove and savored every moment. It was until the bus had to honk its horn several times at me, I finally had to leave. These animals really are a natural wonder. I was really impressed with them and all of the Falkland Islands. Its unique landscape, flora, fauna and wildlife are something to be marveled. I hope one day to come back to the Falklands and visit my friends in white and black.         -DB

 

 

 

Brazilian Time - Salvador, Brazil

After 5 long sea days the question still remained: Are crew going to be allowed off in Brazil? Brazil is infamous for not letting crew off in their country and even though I had already got a Brazilian Tourist visa, I was told they can still keep me on the ship.

In the morning, a sheet of paper was sent under my door reading: “ Happy to announce all crew nationalities are allowed to go ashore today in Salvador. Please stand by for Santos and Rio de Janeiro clearance, as the requirement might change from one port to the other.” Excited, I hopped in the shower and after, I messaged a friend of mine who happened to be in Salvador at the same time to meet up. He gave me a location that was a little vague but I figured I could talk to the locals to get directions.

I grabbed my stuff and got off the ship and into the terminal. There was a few tourist information booths so I figured I’d ask about directions. The first booth I showed the lady working the booth my instructions on my phone; but she replied in Portuguese something along the lines of “uh, use the other booth” so I walked over to the next booth. I showed the gentleman working at the next booth my phone instructions and in great english he gave me a map and told me how to get there. I had to take a large public elevator and walk down a few streets and I’d be there.

So off I went on foot. Immediately after leaving the terminal, I was bombarded with locals try to sell me fruit, hats or water bottles. After giving some of my classic Pop Warner football jukes, I was able to break free. I walked down the street which was dirty and broken. I kept my hand on my camera bag very close. This seemed like an area that some one would cut the strap of my bag and runaway with it. I had to keep my head on a swivel if I wanted to make it out of this. Along the way I realized that taking my camera was probably a bad idea. Taking it out would only make me a target for theft. So the photos I did secretly take, I used my phone for which I thought was marginally better.

I eventually bumped into the ship's drummer Ric who was wandering the streets by himself. I invited him to come along as my friend was also a drummer and they could have some things to talk about. We made it to the elevator which takes you up the cliff and into Pelourinho which is the tourist area. Once we got off the elevator we were bombarded again with locals trying to sell you things or give you “gifts” which later they ask for money for. We raced by them and made it to the streets. I took out my map to navigate our position. I had an idea of where we were but I wanted to make sure so I asked one of the military personnel who was on every street corner. I told them the name of the church and they pointed in the direction and gave me a few words in Portuguese that I assumed meant “over there”. I walked over and made it to what called Jesus Square.

There we saw the Church Sao Francisco which was the location that my friend told me to meet him. There we looked around and finally decided to sit and wait for him at one of the outside Cafes. I looked at my phone and saw a message from Mike that said lets bump it to 11:30am instead of 11:15. I looked at the time on my phone and it said 11:20am. Rick and I walked around and killed some time before sitting down for a cold drink while we waited for Mike. 11:30am came and went and so did 11:45. By 11:50 we were wondering where he was. Were we in the right place? Was he running behind? Did we just flat out miss him? We then were trying to decide if we should start walking around and see some of the town when I finally saw him walking up.

I waved him down and shook his hand. I introduced him to Ric and we started walking. It turns out that Mike is here playing in one of the Samba Schools and has been here for two weeks. As we walked he gave us some history of the town and history of the musical importance of Salvador. The pothole filled cobbled streets had been decorated for carnival and they were filled with locals decorating, setting up stages and even some rehearsing for the great celebration. We eventually got to a part of the town where it looked like the locals were about to play. We sat on the curb and chatted and waited. Mike and I caught up and talked more about the music. We sat on that curb about 15min and decided that these guys weren't going to start anytime soon. Mike explained that people here on “Brazilian Time”, which meant nothing goes as scheduled and everything runs behind. We got up and walked down the street some more.

At one point while we were walking, Mike bumped into someone he knew. He introduced himself as Kurt and Mike explained that he was a UCLA professor and  also an author on a few books about music/samba schools in Salvador. So in other words, the dude was an expert on the music of this area. They chatted and I chimed in with an occasional joke. They swapped Samba stories and Kurt told a story of how he was waiting around for the march to begin (again with the Brazilian time), and when they were about to finally march, he noticed his shoes were untied. He bent down to tie them and the leader I guess shouted at him and gave him every bad 4 letter word in the book. Now he wears sandals.

We left Kurt and went to a little restaurant where we could have lunch. It was a cafeteria style where you take a plate and put whatever you want on and they weigh the plate and you pay after. I grabbed some rice, chicken, friend plantains, sliced guava, mango and papaya and a cup of Guava juice and took a seat. The food was nice, especially the fruit, It was cold and fresh. While we ate, Ric and I told Mike about cruise ship life and all the wild stories we had.

After lunch, Mike had to get back to where he was staying which was out in the Favelas which is basically the ghetto. We thanked him for coming out to meet us and showing us around. We left him and Ric wanted to find Wifi somewhere. We wander the streets for about 20min with no success. We decided then to head back to the ship and call it a day.

My first time in Brazil was an interesting one. Not the safest I’ve ever felt in a port but it had a lot of culture behind the old buildings. I wish I had the time to stay in the evening but thats ship life for ya. My friend Mike really helped us and showed us thing we normally would have never found. He proved to be a good host. I hope to have an even better tim in Rio de Janeiro which we dock in 4 days! We’ll see what happens then…     -DB

Almost Relaxed - Grenada

Bright and early, I made it down the gangway. The port here is so much more beautiful than previous ports. The land jacks up a hill and the small, vibrant houses look down at you as you exit the pier. I met up with my tour guide and after waiting for the other members of the tour, we were led into small buses. I stayed in the back and one of the gentleman pulled out a collapsible chair and the metal bar feet slammed right into my big toe. I gave out a loud “Shit!” and the guy didn’t bat an eye. He had no care that he damn near broke my toe. As the bus got moving I was almost sure that if I didn’t break it, i would at least lose the toe nail. It was throbbing and the guy was just talking to his significant other and not caring that I was behind him holding my foot and whispering obscenities under my breath.

We made it to Fort George which had a great view of the town and the fisherman’s marina on the other side. We walked through it and was told the history of the fort as well as the place where the prime minister Maurice Bishop and 15 others were executed in 1983 when the U.S. had to take the island by force to prevent it from becoming a communist state. The bullet holes are still in the walls and as we walked by, several people out there fingers in them to “feel the history” I guess. As I hobbled back down from the fort, I got back in the car and made sure the same guy didn’t slam his seat on my feet again.

 

 

  

We drove to the next fort which was Ft. Fredrick. The drive was a scenic one and we even stopped at a few places along the way to take photos. The interior of the island is mostly jungle with a few houses spread through out. The island is known for it’s spices that they grow here which include Nutmeg, Vanilla, Honey, Jam and Chocolate. In fact its nickname is “The Spice Island”.

Eventually we made it to the fort and out side was some steel drum players performing. I walked into the fort but it was nothing special really. Just some stone walls and arches with nothing too spectacular. It had a nice view so I took a few photos and headed back to the bus.

 

Once we got going, we drove around the island and I was able to see several tropical neighborhoods and business along the way. I saw that they were building a new port to get more cruise ships to come in. It seemed like Grenada was primitive, yet had a lot going for it. In about 50 years, I can see it being a second or even first world country.

We got to the Holiday Inn Resort where we were able to get to a nice, clean beach and get a free rum punch. I sat in the shade and relaxed with my rum punch and slid away into tropical inebriation. A relaxing act indeed. I didn’t care to jump in the water, I didn’t need to worry about locals trying to hassle me; just drinking and relaxing. I relaxed for what have been over an hour when It was finally time to get back. I stumbled over to the buses where they took us back to the ship.

 

After getting back to the ship I decided to walk around a bit and see the nice fisherman’s marina area. I walked through a tunnel and into the neighborhood. They had decorated the streets as the following day was Grenada Independence Day. The streets were lined with green, red and yellow banners and flags. The buildings were colorful and old looking. It gave the marina a nice European charm. I walked around a bit and noticed a lot of people starting at me. I must of stuck out like a sore thumb and eventually my instincts told me I should probably turn around. On my way back a guy came up to me and was trying to give me a tour. I was short with him but polite. He asked where I was from and I said “L.A.”. He instantly perked up and I could almost see the dollar signs in his eyes. I immediately regretted telling him that. He continued to follow me and he noticed that I was by myself. I then decided to make my way back on the ship for safety sake. He followed me all the was back to the terminal where eventually ran off into a crowded area.

 

 

As much as you want to be able to relax in these places, you always have to keep your eyes open and never trust these people. If they could have it their way, they would just shoot you and take your money and leave you dead in the gutter. Unfortunately, with these poor counties, you can never completely relax…        -DB